Monthly Archive for August, 2008

I’m full of spite. Now fine me.

Spitting and not spiting! Even then the phrase “spitting person” would sound quite comical BTW.

spiting

Sheepish in Gurgaon

Gurgaon is still a ‘gaon’ with sheep co-existing with call centers and malls. These pictures were taken near the Max hospital — Very much in the heart of Gurgaon ‘town.’

Click on the images for a larger version.

In case you missed it, here is one about donkeys.

Quiz

Where was this photograph taken

1. Heathrow International Airport

2. Mumbai International Airport

3. Brussels International Airport

4. Bangkok International Airport

The answer is (2) Mumbai. Yes! India’s aiports are finally improving. While it will take sometime for them to become “world class” this is a big change from the days of rusting airport coffee vending machines and depressing ITDC restaurants.

Which is better: India or China?

Smoke and Mirrors: An Experience of China by Pallavi Aiyar,

288 Pages, HarperCollins India

This is a unique book about modern China. Too often we hear about China from a Western perspective. This book talks about modern China from an Indian perspective. The author, Pallavi Aiyar has spent 5 years in Beijing, first as an English teacher and then as a China based correspondent for Indian dailies. This book is important because Pallavi understands India and China in ways many of our respected political commentators don’t or can’t: she is young (and therefore not polluted by the memory of India-China’s recent history) and she has lived there.

Smoke and Mirrors is a kind of travelogue of China (mostly Beijing) 2002-2007. Some chapters deal with the minutiae of her life in a Beijing hutong and as an English teacher while others are more broad based and deal with Chinese society and economy. Like all talented journalists she wrings out meaning from the smallest of situations and occurrences. Particular emphasis is placed on how other Indians view and experience China: the Indian business man, the doorkeeper, the yoga master and so on.

My primary motivation for picking up Pallavi Aiyar’s book was to answer my simple question:

“Which is better, India or China?”

Like many of my fellow citizens, I have been extremely jealous of China’s rise.  This book does not disappoint. Pallavi Aiyar gives a logical and well thought out answer that comes towards the end of her book. So important is this answer for our politicians and fellow citizens, that I’d like to put excerpts of it on the Internet . Here is Pallavi in her own words:

But while it may have abounded with consummate salespeople and irrepressible entrepreneurs,   Chinese society remained deeply ant-intellectual. More a product of a political and educational system that discouraged criticism and encouraged group think than any primordial characteristic, this was the aspect of China I personally found most wearying.

It was the absence of a passion for ideas, the lack of delight in argument for its own sake, and the dearth of reasoned but brazen dissent that most gave me a cause for home sickness. [...]

In China, those who disagreed with mainstream, officially sanctioned views outside of the parameters set by mainstream officially sanctioned debate more often than not found themselves branded as dissidents — suspect, hunted, under threat [...]

For an argumentative Indian for a country where heterodoxy was the norm, this enforced homogeneity in Chinese thought and attitude scratched against the natural grain. There were thus occasions when despite all of India’s painful shortcomings, I would assert with conviction that it was better to be an India than endure the stifling monotony of what tended to pass as an intellectual life in China.

But then I would return to Delhi for a few days and almost immediately long to be back in Beijing [...] Later on the same day, however I might switch on the TV and catch a session of the Indian parliament, not always the most inspiration of bodies but when looked at with China-habituated eyes, more alluring than usual.

China’s economic achievement over he last thirty or so year may have been unparalleled historically, but so was India’s political feat. Its democracy was almost unique amongst post colonial states not simply for its existence against all odds in a country held together not by geography, language or ethnicity but an idea. This was an idea that asserted, even celebrated, the possibility of multiple identities. In India you could and were expected to be both many things and one thing simultaneously.

[...]

India’s great political achievement was thus in its having developed mechanisms for negotiating large-scale diversity along with the inescapable corollary of frequent and aggressive disagreement. The guiding and perhaps lone consensus that formed the bedrock of that mechanism was that in a democracy you don’t really need to agree — expect on the ground rules of how you will disagree (from Guha, India after Gandhi, 2007)

All of which being true still did not help to definitively answer the question, ‘If I could choose would I rather be born Indian or Chinese?’

[...] If forced to reply in broad brush strokes I would assert the following: were i to be able to ensure being born even moderately well-off, I would probably plump for India over China.

In India, money allowed you to exist happily enough despite the constant failure of government to deliver services. Most Delhi households that could afford it has private generators for when the electricity failed and private tube wells in their gardens to ensure the water supply that the municipality couldn’t. The police offered little protection from crime and so many households hired private security guards.

Having developed the necessary private channels with which to deal with the lack of public goods one was free in India to enjoy the intellectual pleasure of discussion the nature of ‘the idea of India’ or to enjoy the heady adrenalin rush of winning a well-argued debate.

These were real pleasures and freedoms and their broader significance was not merely confined to the elite. A tradition of argumentation was fundamental to India;s secularism and democratic polity, with wide-ranging implications for all sections of society.

One the other hand, were I to be born poor, I would take my chances in authoritarian China, where despite lacking a vote, the likelihood of my being decently fed, clothed and housed were considerably higher. Most crucially, China would present me with relatively greater opportunities for upward social-economic mobility. So that even though I may  have been born impoverished, there was a better chance I wouldn’t die as wretched in China, as in India.

[...]

So ultimately despite political representation for the poor in India and the absence of political participation in China, the latter trumped India when it came to the delivery of basic public goods like roads, electricity, drains, water supplies and schools where teachers actually show up.

This counter-intuitive state of affairs was linked to the fact that while in China the CCP derived its legitimacy from delivering growth, in India a government desired its legitimacy simply from its having been voted in. Delivering on its promised was thus less important that the fact of having been elected.

The legitimacy of democracy in many ways absolved Indian governments form the necessity of performing. The CCP could afford no such luxury. (Excerpts from pg. 240-245)

Wonderful wasn’t it? Thanks for the well thought out “answer” !

What I found most interesting was Pallavi’s statement that essentially, we should place a value on our ability of speak freely, write freely, protest, move about freely, choose our leaders and chart our own destiny in a democracy like India. It is not only important to measure a country’s success by the per-capita income, but by the freedoms available to its citizens. This is precisely Amartya Sen’s thesis in the wonderful Development as Freedom.

Coming back to Pallavi, I like to recommend this book unequivocally. A young Indian female intellectual reporting from China is a rare perspective indeed. Lap it up at your nearest bookstore.

Sidharth’s Rating: 4 stars of 5.

We don’t sell raw material milk and curd etc.

Slightly bizarre and long list of notices outside a restaurant in Khan Market. Each of these signs tell us a little about our Delhi:

1. The modern, politically correct Delhi is represented by the non-smoking sign

2. The bureaucratic Delhi is represented by the “We do not sell Raw Material Milk & Curd…etc.” This sign could be a legal requirement because I’ve seen it outside many restaurants in Delhi (Why restaurants would otherwise go out of the way to put up this archaic sounding notice defeats me). The profusion of these notices (’signitis‘) would make any sarkari babu proud.

3. “Liquiour [sic] will not be served to below 25 yrs of aged person” is of course the hypocritical Delhi. ‘Liquor’ is wrongly slept and that represents our chalta hai Delhi.

4.  The violent, lawless and  ‘tandoori’ Delhi finds voice in the “Arms and Ammunition not allowed in the premises”

5. “Rights of Admission Reserved” (loosely translated: “If you look too poor we’ll throw you out”) represents the status conscious Delhi.

We can learn so much about the character of Delhi just from these notices!

Tiger Beer Arrives in India

One of Asia’s most famous (and tasty) beers is now in India. I had a bottle of Tiger Beer at Chona’s in Khan Market recently. It is manufactured in India and not imported (so it won’t burn a hole in the pocket like a Corona or Heineken). Incidentally a 650 ml (big bottle) of Tiger costs Rs 160/- while a Kingfisher is Rs 140/- at Chona’s…

Stop spending massive amounts to shave your beard!

I use Gillette’s Mach III Turbo Shaving “System.” I love the smooth shave Mach III delivers. Unfortunately, the blades are just too expensive. Two replacement blades are Rs 200+ !! I’ve always wondered why there are no other competitors in the high-end wet-shaving systems market. It’s always been a puzzle to me. Gillette has literally monopolized the market (for what doesn’t seem like a high technology rocket-science product to me. I mean, they are just fancy schmancy blades!). Shouldn’t have competitors come out with equivalent products by now?

This pet peeve gave rise to a conspiracy theory of mine: Is the high end shaving systems market a near monopoly because of Gillette’s ability to do deals with supermarkets? Does Gillette give implicit or explicit non-compete payments to supermarkets to stock only its brands in the high-end segment?

Well it doesn’t matter anymore: Its Independence (from Gillette) day!

I went shopping at Spencer’s Supermarket yesterday (in Gurgaon) and saw an equivalent (for all purposes) shaving system called: “GLIDE Tri-Flex.” It’s very similar to the Mach III in looks and functionality (however, the cartridges are not compatible with Gillette).

For Rs. 199/- I was able to get a starter shaving system (1 Shaving Stem & 6 Blades!!). In the future I’ll just have to purchase the blades, of course. TriFlex blades are dirt cheap compared to Gillette Mach III blades. The shave quality is almost as good as Mach III. I’d say 95% as good — maybe the shave quality is  equivalent and there are psychological factors at play here (I’m still “addicted” to Gillette).

I was so enthusiastic about this new “development” that I googled around a bit: the product is manufactured by the American Safety Razor Company, USA and assembled in India by “Glide International.” You can visit ASR’s website here. The product is listed under “Men Shaving Systems” and its called Tri-Flexxx3 (essentially the same thing).

Guys, please spread the word. A high quality, inexpensive shave is within everyone’s reach!